The ‘Kooks Burrito’ Uproar & The Fight Over Food Appropriation. Uproxx. Once upon a time, two women from Portland, OR went on a road trip to Puerto Nuevo, Mexico. While there, they gorged themselves on the small village’s famous lobster burritos wrapped in handmade flour tortillas.

They liked these tortillas so much that they studied them — seemingly without implicit permission or by paying one of the local “abuelitas” as a guide. Months later, they unlocked the recipe for making these tortillas through trial and error and started a breakfast burrito pop up inside of a preexisting taco cart.

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The response to Kook’s San Diego- style, potato- infused gut bombs was overwhelmingly positive. Then an interview ran in one of Portland’s two independent newspapers, Willamette Week, in which the two young women came off as… flippant? Cocky? Imperialistic? Young? How you feel about the attitudes reflected in the article will depend on who and to what degree you bestow the benefit of the doubt. And who and to what degree you bestow the benefit of the doubt to will depend on all sorts of factors connected to how you were raised, what culture you were raised in, feelings of marginalization, and your personal take on the notion of food appropriation. Here’s the quote that launched a thousand negative Yelp reviews: “I picked the brains of every tortilla lady there in the worst broken Spanish ever, and they showed me a little of what they did,” Connelly says. They told us the basic ingredients, and we saw them moving and stretching the dough similar to how pizza makers do before rolling it out with rolling pins.

They wouldn’t tell us too much about technique, but we were peeking into the windows of every kitchen, totally fascinated by how easy they made it look. We learned quickly it isn’t quite that easy.”The comments on the piece blew up. People were angry, then other people got angry at the angry people, and the conversation showed signs of slipping out of control. It didn’t though; not quite. Amidst the occasional name calling and overly- authoritative statements, there was some genuine insight.

Consider this salvo: Jen: Sooooooo, let me get this straight. Are you all suggesting that Andy Ricker close Pok Pok? Should John Gorham close Toro Bravo?

January 10th, 2017. My succulent Baskin!! Your words leave me flushed. You musn’t be so forward! What if father had intercepted our correspondence?

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What about Expatriate? Should we force Kyle to stop serving Laotian tacos?

Are you going to try and convince me you’ve never stood in line at Por Que No? Um, Bollywood Theater anyone? If learning how to make a food from another culture and selling it is now considered cultural appropriation, then why not take this issue up with the sucessful PDX businesses that have been doing this at a much larger scale for years, and stop harassing these two women struggling to start a small business.

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2. Examining The ‘Kooks Burrito’ Uproar & The Fight Over Food Appropriation.

THX. And this sharp response: Gabeh Lissette Gutierrez: “Learning how to make food from another culture”- implies some sort of collaboration. This article makes it clear they were given the basic recipe and when the cooks did not want to share more, these women then went further and purposely looked through the windows of their establishments to steal the rest of the technique. I doubt you’ve ever been to Puerto Nuevo, but my family took me there every summer up into my teens. Its honestly the smallest cluster of businesses, just outside of Rosarito, with each restaurant usually being family owned with a unique family guarded recipe of their tortillas. It doesn’t matter if this stupid pop up will ultimately hurt the businesses in Puerto Nuevo, its the complete lack of respect and sense of entitlement they went about stealing the recipes when they were purposely not given the complete technique.

There are interesting thoughts percolating there and interesting ideas to contemplate. A day later, a headline from Mic. Mic. com. Then Portland’s other independent weekly, The Portland Mercury, wrote a piece called “This Week In Appropriation Kooks Burritos and Willamette Week.” The conversation went viral. Kook’s Yelp reviews fell off a cliff, the young owners went into hiding, and the cart shuttered. Plans for expansion were scuttled.

As the story broadened, it became clear that this is a conversation that both the food world and the city of Portland needed to have. A group of activists created a list of alternatives to restaurants deemed appropriative, and food media came under scrutiny. Kooks Burritos — named for surfers who venture into waters too heavy for them to handle (which seems all too fitting now) — started a conversation that is worthy and important.

In light of all of this, and feeling troubled by how shallow these discussions often remain, I asked food writers Zach Johnston, Delenda Joseph, and Vince Mancini to discuss the issue (with me) in a round table format. It’s easy for the media to shirk these stories and keep them surface level and we want to do the exact opposite. If you’d like to share your own take, your thoughts and insight are valued. Steve Bramucci, Food Editor, Uproxx. ZACH’S MAIN COURSEGetty Image. I’ve talked about cultural appropriation before. It 1. 00 percent exists and happens all the fucking time.

Using Hollywood- inspired iconography of American Indians for sports teams is probably one of the more egregious examples. But even that has its exceptions. Cleveland adopted its team name based on Louis Sockalexis, a Native American player from Penobscot Indian Reservation. It was a worthy honorific until the Cleveland Indians pissed away all that good will with an insanely racist mascot that persists to this day. I’m telling this story for context. The best intentions can lead to really shitty outcomes. Now I have to turn that lens on myself.

I’ve traveled to 6. One of the biggest reasons I travel was to explore and absorb food culture. I don’t leave a country until I’ve talked to a chef and a bartender at least once. I soak up recipes and techniques everywhere I go.

I can make a killer naan and chapati because of six weeks of roadside breakfasts in Penang. My momo skills are on point due to hanging out with a Nepali refugee in Darjeeling. I pride myself on being able to make authentic and delicious plates of carbonara or bolognese just like they do in Rome and Bologna. Food is the greatest binder of people. I’ve worked in kitchens under chefs I didn’t share more than 5. That’s magical. So for me, the idea that me making bolognese or momos is cultural appropriation or somehow equates to grotesque American Indian iconography is madness.

But, then that’s me talking. I know people try to make someone else’s food and mangle it. I’ve had to eat shitty pho made by a German. That’s where things get muddied, my intentions are not everyone else’s. And I don’t want to be the one who honors Sockalexis only to see that honor turn to horror. Which is to say, I’m conflicted.

Things You Might Not Know About 'Justified'For five seasons, Timothy Olyphant has redefined the 2. U. S. Marshal Raylan Givens on the FX series Justified. Tonight, the show—based on a short story by the late, great Elmore Leonard, who also served as an executive producer—will begin its sixth and final season. If the previous five seasons are any indication, it’s fair to assume that there will be a body count when Raylan tips his Stetson for the final time. Here are 2. 1 things you might not know about Graham Yost’s Emmy- winning series. 1. RAYLAN GIVENS EXISTED BEFORE JUSTIFIED. Though Justified, and its pilot episode in particular, is based on Elmore Leonard’s 2.

Fire in the Hole," Raylan Givens made his literary debut in 1. Leonard’s novel Pronto, and again in 1. Riding the Rap. 2. Watch The Mystery Of The Leaping Fish IMDB. STEVEN SEAGAL IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE SERIES’ TITLE. In the early stages of production, the series’ working title was "Lawman." “And then Steven Seagal’s reality show [Steven Seagal: Lawman] came on and we felt that there would be too much confusion, so we had to come up with something else,” series creator Graham Yost told IESB in 2.

And someone at FX came up with Justified because it was used as a line in the pilot.”3. EVEN BEFORE JUSTIFIED, LEONARD WAS ONE OF YOST’S BIGGEST INFLUENCES.“Elmore was an influence—or at least someone I aspired to emulate—even before Justified,” Yost told TV Dudes when asked about the writers that inspired him. YOST GOT HIS START ON HEY DUDE. Yost’s first paying gig in Hollywood was as a writer on the Nickelodeon series Hey Dude, which ran from 1. It was very low- budget,” Yost recalled to A. V. Club in 2. 01.

We were shooting on location at a real dude ranch in Tucson, so it looked pretty good for the paltry sum. We’d shoot an episode in three days so we were shooting 1. It was a great experience. The budget was a challenge, but the big challenge was just that we weren’t necessarily the best writers; we all became better.” 5.

YOST ALSO WROTE FOR FULL HOUSE. Shortly after his Hey Dude gig ended, Yost spent a couple of months as a writer on Full House.

I was on Full House for nine and a half weeks,” Yost told A. V. Club. “I was hired on a probationary period of 1. I quit four days before I was going to be fired.

It’s funny, I’ve run into Dennis Rinsler, who was one of the showrunners there with Marc Warren, and they have never confirmed for me that I was going to be fired, but I certainly felt like I was going to be fired … I was told that I was hired because they wanted edge, and a show like that really didn’t want edge. It was a big room, and it was competitive, and it was hard to get stuff in. I just felt like I was completely not the right fit. Although I really liked everyone in the room, it just didn’t feel like a good fit.

So I quit, and then happily Speed sold a couple days later.” 6. LEONARD WAS A FAN OF OLYPHANT’S PORTRAYAL.

Before his passing, Leonard was very vocal about being a fan of Justified—particularly with the way that Olyphant interpreted the character of Raylan. In 2. 01. 2, The Wall Street Journal asked Leonard whether the series had influenced the way he visualized the character in his writing, to which he responded: “No, because Tim Olyphant plays the character exactly the way I wrote him. I couldn't believe it. He's laidback and he's quiet about everything, but he says, if I have to pull my gun, then that's a different story. And it works. There are very few actors that recite the lines exactly the way you hear them when you're writing the book.

George Clooney [in the 1. Out of Sight] was one.

He was very good.” 7. OLYPHANT ISN’T THE FIRST ACTOR TO PORTRAY RAYLAN GIVENS. James Le. Gros got there first, playing Raylan Givens in the 1. TV movie adaptation of Pronto. And Le. Gros has popped up on Justified, too: In 2. Wade Messer. 8. NICK SEARCY WAS THE FIRST CHOICE FOR ART MULLEN.“When I read Elmore’s story 'Fire in the Hole,' and I got to the character of Art Mullen, I just knew that that would be Nick Searcy,” Yost told IESB. I worked with him on From the Earth to the Moon, and he’s from the South and he has that avuncular, good sense of humor and yet is believable as a boss.” 9.

WALTON GOGGINS HAD TO BE CONVINCED TO PLAY BOYD CROWDER.“I've known Walt for years, and when we first mentioned the idea of him playing Boyd, he had concerns—the stereotype of the Southern racist and all that,” Olyphant recently told Rolling Stone. He's from the region [Goggins was raised in Georgia] so he was sensitive about putting that out there in a one- dimensional way. You know, a lot of actors, we aren't that special; you get a well- written scene, and it's virtually actor- proof. But during the casting process, we had a list of people we had in mind for Boyd and the more I looked at his name on that list, the more I kept telling everyone involved, ‘Look, I stand corrected. I've been saying anyone could do it, but we really need to get this specific guy to play Boyd.

He'll bring something special to it.’ And the son of a bitch did. He makes everybody better just by being around him.”1. BOYD WASN’T SUPPOSED TO SURVIVE THE FIRST EPISODE. It’s hard to imagine Justified without the frenemy friction between Raylan and Boyd. But even when the series began shooting, the plan was for Boyd to be killed off in the pilot. Walton Goggins was initially resistant to the idea of playing Boyd, but we talked him into it,” Yost told IESB.

And that became a huge get for the show because he really made Boyd come alive and become someone that, in Elmore’s story and then in the pilot as we shot it, dies, but the decision was made to keep him alive.” 1. THERE WAS NO ARLO IN "FIRE IN THE HOLE."In the series, Raylan’s criminal father Arlo serves as an impetus for his choice to stay on the right side of the law.

But in the original short story, Raylan’s daddy issues weren’t quite so prominent. In Elmore’s story .. Raylan’s father is dead and he died of black lung,” Yost told IESB. He was a miner. I just decided, ‘Well, let’s keep him alive and let’s have him be a criminal.’ That’s what Raylan rebelled against, and that’s why he became a U. S. Marshal. So, right there, that dynamic gave us something to explore.”1. TO GET LEONARD’S VOICE RIGHT, THE WRITERS BECAME READERS.

One of Justified’s hallmarks is its ability to perfectly replicate Leonard’s whipsmart dialogue. And much of this comes from the first assignment Yost gave after assembling his team of writers: Read! When we started the writing room, we bought as many of Elmore’s books as we could find and divided them up,” Yost told IESB.

Everyone took a couple on and read them, so they would get into the rhythms and get the style. One of the great things that I got to do in writing the pilot was actually retype a lot of Elmore’s style and put it in the script. It was interesting. Just the act of retyping it let me get into the language a little bit more.”1. LEONARD ENVISIONED RAYLAN WITH A SMALLER HAT. Raylan’s signature Stetson is a bit larger than Leonard imagined it. The critics have been calling Raylan a cowboy with his hat,” Leonard told Salon.

The hat came unexpectedly [with the show]. I had described kind of a businessman’s Stetson, a smaller Stetson … But evidently he found his own hat and design. It’s perfect. I don’t see him bareheaded. He seems to need a hat to define who he is.”1. THERE IS ONLY ONE BACKUP FOR THE HAT ON SET AT ANY GIVEN TIME.

Raylan’s hat is one of the character’s key accessories (second only to his gun, perhaps—though he did spend much of season five hat- less). But there’s not a closetful of Stetsons on set should the main hat sustain damage during shooting. Over the holidays, our costumer took the hat and asked if it was okay to have it refit,” Olyphant told Rolling Stone in 2. It's taking a heck of a beating.’ So I said, ‘Of course,’ and she said, ‘God, I had the hat at my house and I was constantly locking the doors… I can't be the person who loses that hat.’”1.

YOU CAN BUY YOUR VERY OWN RAYLAN HAT. Want to channel your inner U.